The gourmette chain or curb chain is certainly one of the oldest types of chain.

The design is simple, links threaded then twisted, but fascinating by the interweaving they can present.

The singer Christophe often appears in photo with a big chain bracelet with triple silver gourmette chain.

We had the opportunity to reproduce this sterling silver bracelet on behalf of our client.

gourmette chain worn

Three-row gourmette chain bracelet of the singer

This type of three-row bracelet is characterized by the fact that each row is twisted in the opposite direction of the adjacent row.

gourmette chain

Manufacture of the gourmette chain bracelet

We will have to make two types of chains, one of more than 40 cm twisted on the right while the other of a little more than 20 cm twisted on the left.

The manufacture begins with the rolling of a silver wire big enough for our project.

gourmette chain

Rolled silver wire, we will need more than 200 grams for this achievement

Our wire is then wound on a metal axis to obtain a spiral of silver wire, which cuts in the direction of the length will give us the links of our chain.


gourmette chain

Assembly of silver round links forming our chain

Once the chain is the right length, the links that were sawn are welded and then the chain is tensioned.

One can then twist one-to-one links, then the chain is struck with a mallet.

gourmette chain

Formatting the gourmette chain in tension

The chain is then filed to give it its faces, characteristics of the gourmette chains filed.

It should be noted that not all gourmette chains are necessarily filed.

The chain is glued on a wooden support to hold it fixed to file it.

gourmette chain

The black that we see is the glue used to fix the chain to the wooden support. We notice the white parts, the silver exposed by the file.

Our two types of chains (twisted to the right or left) thus prepared, we can now assemble them by welding.

gourmette chain

View of three rows of gourmette chains before soldering

Each link is thus welded to its lateral neighbors while respecting the alignment.

The sixty centimeters of simple prepared gourmet chain are now assembled into a triple chain of just over twenty centimeters.

gourmette chain

View of the triple gourmette chain bracelet just welded

Realization of the clasp

We can then begin manufacture the ratchet clasp of the bracelet. This clasp integrated in the thickness of the bracelet must be the least visible possible.

gourmette chain

Both ends of the bracelet with the clasp blade and its pusher.

gourmette chain

 big gourmette chain

The first tests of the ratchet clasp allow us to see the interlocking of the pieces and the discreet joining of the two ends of the bracelet.

We can then start polishing the bracelet. First overall polishing then link by link to polish the recessed surfaces.

gourmette chain

Then we take care of the polishing of the parts of the less visible links.

polishing links

We get our fully polished gourmette chain bracelet.

gourmette chain bracelet

gourmette chain bracelet

gourmette chain bracelet

We can appreciate the flexibility of the bracelet despite the links that are very tight to each other.

gourmette chain bracelet

View of the clasp, discreet after polishing

Here is another type of curb bracelet that may interest you :

curb chain bracelet

The detail of its design is visible here

 

For further :

September 19, 2019 — Hugo Maherault

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