Jewels are manipulated every day and subjected to daily blows and rubs, they end up getting damaged with time.

This is especially true for the rings and bracelets that undergo the innumerable movements of our hands, with the solicitations that this implies.

The gold bracelets (fr) do not escape the rule and damage either at the level of the gold chain (fr) by the breakage of a link, or at the clasp that overloaded ended up breaking at the level of a weld or closing mechanism.

In this case, we will detail the repair steps of an 18-karat gold ratchet clasp for gold figaro link bracelet (fr).

gold bracelet repair

18-karat yellow gold men's bracelet and new ratchet clasp repaired

Note that a bracelet as thin and light (the links are hollow) is much more delicate and fragile than a big pure gold bracelet (fr) like the one presented here and manufactured via our online service.

Gold ratchet clasp

In this case, the repair of the bracelet is necessary because it is the ratchet clasp which no longer fulfills its function.

To learn more about the different types of clasp for bracelets and necklace, this article will give you useful information.

The solders started to crack and the metal, too thin, deforms. It will be completely redone.

Note that this bracelet is from trade, the clasp is metal too fine to withstand the normal stresses of a bracelet. Check the condition of the clasp.

ratchet clasp

Clasp worn by time and blows breaking

This type of clasp is in two parts: the rectangle part is called the box, and the other, which includes a metal strip folded on itself that will "click" in the same box.

Its name comes from the noise made by the spring of the metal blade when it is lodged in the clasp, thus blocking the opening of the bracelet.

gold ratchet clasp

Box and spring ratchet clasp

Stages of the repair

Here are the manufacture steps of an 18-karat yellow gold ratchet clasp for the restoration of this bracelet.

First and foremost, we will melt 18-karat yellow gold metal. It will be poured into a flat mold so that it can be shaped to pass through the mill.

gold ingot

18-karat yellow gold ingot

Once laminated to the desired thickness, the metal plate will be laid flat and then we will be able to trace the figure to cut with scribing pliers, compass and square.

Our gold plate will make between 0.8 and 0.9 millimeters against 0.3 millimeters that made the old clasp. This will allow him to have a stronger hold over time and not crash.

The rectangle represents the lower part of the ratchet box before it is shaped. This cut should be perfectly parallel and its perpendicular angles for the smooth progress of the next steps.

ratchet clasp

Cutting the base of the ratchet in a yellow gold laminate

The places where the sides of the box will be folded are then drawn with a compass and then filed with a triangular file so that the angle fits perfectly during folding.

Ratchet clasp

Lower part of the box once filed and before folding

The rectangle will then be annealed to make it more malleable and folded into right angles. Two internal solders will then solidify the folding and give shape to the beginning of the ratchet box.

ratchet clasp

Internal solders of the box

Two other plates will be soldered to the box, which will be cut and then filed down in order to have an almost complete box.

ratchet clasp

Almost complete box after solders

A last small plate will be soldered to the front of the box to create a stop. However, the gold leaf that will spring will be realized before, so that no error concerning the dimensions is made.

The ratchet slat will also be made in a laminated yellow gold, but on the other hand much thinner.

ratchet clasp

Rolled yellow gold before being filed and folded

The layout will be based on the internal volume of the box, then the plate will be filed as for the interior of it but with a much more pronounced angle.

Once folded, a small solder will consolidate the spring then the last plate serving as an abutment can be added.

ratchet clasp

Clasp box and ratchet

An "ankle" will be brazed on the top of the ratchet, it will be used to pressure the spring to open the clasp.

An opening will be cut in the upper part of the box for access to this ankle.

The technical part of the clasp is then complete.

ratchet clasp

Ratchet clasp completed and opened

Ratchet clasp

Closed and closed ratchet clasp

Once the system of the clasp functional, the two parts will be welded to the links of the chain of the bracelet. We also take the opportunity to resize the length of the bracelet.

ratchet clasp completed

Ratchet clasp welded to yellow gold bracelet

Careful polishing will complete the repair of this men's bracelet to restore all its brilliance and shine that has almost disappeared over time.

polished gold bracelet

Ratchet clasp polishing

Repairs can give new life to jewelry altered over time for a variety of reasons. This gold bracelet can be worn again without risk of the clasp coming loose.

Ratchet clasp

Renovation of the bracelet completed

repair gold bracelet

Gold bracelet repaired worn on the wrist

 

Here are some realizations of gold bracelets made in our jewelery workshop :

18K gold chain maille rectangle gold bracelet for men milanese maille
custom bracelet for women Maille jaseron bracelet gold and leather

 

For further :

September 10, 2019 — Hugo Maherault

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