This article details the manufacture of a Milanese gold chain bracelet.

Custom made to be mounted on the watch of our client (fr), we detail here the manufacture process of the Milanese chain.

This is a flexible bracelet with articulated links made in 14-karat white gold.

gold Milanese chain bracelet

Milanese chain watch bracelet in 14-karat gold, 19 mm wide, made via our custom made creation service

The Milanese chain is similar to the Polish chain in its manufacture principle, but its visual effect is very different, as seen below.

polish chain maille

Polish chain bracelet, the look differs from the Milanese chain bracelet

These two types of bracelets are formed by cannulas (wire wound on itself to form a spiral) assembled all in the same direction in the case of the Milanese chain and in the opposite direction in the case of the Polish chain.

If the manufacture of Milanese chain watchbands is industrialized, the manufacture of such Milanese gold chain bracelets is completely manual as you will see.

To discover other chain maille weaves, read this article or contact us for a quote for your watch bracelet project.

Characteristics of the Milanese chain

The Milanese chain is characterized by weaving link of steel, silver or gold depending on the bracelet to be made.

In our case, it's a gold thread that is rolled into cannulas, which are then rolled into each other, without pins to bind them together.

Each bag is thus clamped with the previous and welded with the penultimate, giving the Milanese chain are so particular appearance, both massive but very flexible.

Manufacture

The manufacture of our bracelet begins with the preparation of the 14-karat white gold alloy in the form of ingot which is then rolled and stretched and calibrated to have the right diameter for the manufacture.

gold bar

This bar is then rolled to obtain a long wire of several meters

The following video shows the step of rolling the bar in a wire finer and finer. Still, his profile is square instead of round.

 

Our yarn is then calibrated to give it a round shape and the right diameter by passing through a die visible here in photo.

gold wire

Passage of the gold wire through a die to give it its shape and diameter

Here is the video of the passage in die :

 

Our wire is then wrapped around a steel axle to get the right diameter of the rod. The winding is done with a second wire which serves to give the step of our spiral which must be precise for the continuation of the manufacture.

gold wire

We thus obtain a spiral winding of our gold wire which is then cut to the right length (that is to say the width of our bracelet). We thus obtain our cannetilles.

gold wire

Once enough cannulas have been manufactured, they can then be assembled by rotating them into each other to shape the bracelet.

twisted gold wire

Each scallop is inserted into the stitches of the previous bag and then welded to the penultimate.

gold milanese chain

Here is a summary of the different stages of manufacture from the gold bar to the bracelet.

gold bracelet men

Once the bracelet to length, it can weld the ends coming to be mounted on the entrecorne of the watch, it is small tubes where the pins pass to assemble the bracelet to the watch case.

The whole is then polite.

links polishing

We can now appreciate the result of our work on this overview of the bracelet.

gold bracelet men

 

milanese chain bracelet

 milanese chain bracelet in its case

Milanese gold chain bracelet for watch in its case

 

Another achievement of a gold watch accessory made in our jewelry workshop :

gold framing watch gold framing watch gold framing watch

 

For further :

September 19, 2019 — Hugo Maherault

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